Ramesh Galway: Gallops Restaurant Review: A Look At This Iconic Mumbai Establishment After Its Recent Revamp

For the longest time, Gallops restaurant has retained an enviable spot in the minds and hearts of generations of Mumbaikars. Ask city foodies for a list of the most iconic establishments and Gallops would probably feature among the top 10. Ask those who dine there frequently, and they will tell you of many cherished memories associated with the restaurant over its 38 years of existence. Besides the merits of its food, service, and anecdotes, there's also the location. The sprawling green cover of the Mahalaxmi Racecourse forms a beautiful backdrop for meals at this restaurant. It is undeniable then that Gallops is a cultural landmark. So what happens when it decides to do a revamp after 26 years?

_{Photo Credit: Pankaj Anand}

The current custodians of its legacy - Chef Yajush Malik, Jasmine Singh and Mikhail Singh - explain what they set out to do: "Our goal was to introduce new features that we were unable to initially adopt and create a beautiful blend honouring the rich history that has made Gallops an iconic culinary destination." The decor and menu have been enhanced with new features. The old parquet floors have been replaced by rich walnut flooring. The wooden trusses have been stripped of old polish to highlight the beauty of the wood beneath. Custom-made candlelight chandeliers and wall sconces bring a literal glow-up to the space.

_{Photo Credit: Pankaj Anand}

The restaurant also boasts an equestrian-themed memorabilia wall and a luxurious new bar area. The latter has an awe-inspiring centrepiece in the form of "The Red Dancers", an artwork by renowned Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar. "Revamping Gallops was definitely a challenge as it was not only a prerequisite but a tough decision to go ahead with initially. We had to walk a fine line between preserving its authentic roots while subtly introducing newer, modern features to uplift its ambience and dining experience," the partners say.

_{Photo Credit: Gallops Restaurant}

Our meal consisted of newly introduced delicacies as well as signature Gallops dishes that have been retained on the menu. "We introduced 42 delectable dishes that showcase a modern twist on our traditional favourites, ensuring they resonate with contemporary dining trends. The main idea while curating the new offerings was to appeal to new and younger visitors as well as stand true to our long-time patrons." Chef Yajush says. We started our meal with a luscious Paya Shorba, followed by a hearty Smoked Salmon and Nicoise Salad. We already began to note the generous portions, the thoughtful service and the warmth of the ambience. Each appetiser we tasted was an immediate hit: the decadently delicious Goan Grilled Prawns, the melt-in-the-mouth Dori Kebab (a Gallops must-try), the indulgent Chicken Zafrani Tikka and the impressively crispy Khatte Meethe Bhein. The stand out was the Chicken Liver Pate (served with Melba toast, gherkin, rum raisins and hazelnuts), which has been upgraded to include more toppings. The understated refinement of its taste and presentation seemed to capture the essence of Gallops on a platter.

_{Photo Credit: Vinayak Grover}

The bar menu has new additions too. We started with fruity sips of the Strawberry Aperol Harony (strawberry syrup, Aperol, Campari, Vodka) and an exquisite French 75. But the cocktail that wowed us the most was the Orchard Thief, a concoction of Bourbon whiskey, apple juice, cinnamon and bitters. The potency of the whiskey, balanced with the crisp sweetness of the apple, and rounded off with the spice at the end, made for a real treat.

_{Photo Credit: Gallops Restaurant}

The mains continued to delight with their robust flavours. We loved the juicy succulence of the slow-cooked Braised Lamb Shanks, the convincing novelty of the Saag Burrata and the comfortingly silky Daab Chingri (served in an actual coconut). Forget plain tandoori roti and butter naan - we relished the Indian mains with delicious laal naan, missi roti and Malabari paratha, which elevated our experience. As many Gallops regulars will tell you, skipping dessert here is almost unheard of. If you want to try one of the new additions, opt for the Baileys Caramel Cloud - a medley of the all-time beloved notes of cocoa, whiskey, salted caramel and almond. If you want one of the classics, you cannot go wrong with the Baked Alaska. We demolished it in minutes despite the number of dishes that preceded it!

_{Photo Credit: Pankaj Anand}

Those at the helm at Gallops are quick to assure loyal patrons that they have maintained most of the facets of the original charm. Although my dining companion and I did not belong to this category of patrons, the promise fascinated us. At the preview meal for Gallops 2.0, we were the minority that indulged in its famed experience with completely fresh eyes (and palettes). So what did the first-timers find out? The answer: some of the reasons the other patrons choose to return. And thanks to the revamp, there can be more reasons to add to that list.

Where: Gate no. 1, Inside Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Via, Keshavrao Khadye Marg, Royal Western India Turf Club, Mahalakshmi, Mumbai.