Pune's Koregaon Park is a cultural hub that attracts many foodies. One of the most iconic restaurants in the neighbourhood is Malaka Spice, which has been around since 1997. Established by Praful and Cheeru Chandawarkar, this Pan-Asian restaurant is inspired by their travels around Southeast Asia. The extensive menu shines a spotlight on popular and niche delicacies from Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Japan, and Cambodia. Malaka Spice also takes pride in its farm-to-table approach and champions sustainability in different ways. When we visited Pune recently, we had the chance to drop by and taste some of its signature and seasonal delights. Read more about our experience below.
Photo Credit: Malaka Spice
Malaka Spice has two establishments in Pune (Koregaon Park and Kharadi) and two in Nashik (Vallonne Vineyards and Gangapur Road). The original space at Koregaon Park boasts an inviting ambience with indoor and outdoor seating. Despite the heat and humidity of early summer, we enjoyed our feast outdoors. There are strategically placed coolers, ensuring ample ventilation. An abundance of plants along the perimeter ensures you momentarily forget the concrete jungle. The lighting is not frustratingly dim - just shaded enough to create a sense of intimacy and warmth. The indoor space has its own advantages: local artists display their masterpieces on some of the walls, enhancing the decor with their individual aesthetics.
Soups, salads, sushi and starters. We began our meal with Pumpkin Chips. This season, they were made with ash gourd. The flavourful seasoning and the crunchy wholesomeness made it as delectable as peri peri fries (as potato lovers know, this is not a compliment to be furnished lightly). This was followed by a signature Malaka starter: Top Hats. This Malay-inspired treat has been around for many years and boasts legions of fans in the city, Ilvika Chandawarkar tells me.
Kebabs on Sugarcane Skewers. Photo Credit: Instagram/ malakaspice
As I bite into the crispy stuffed cups, I understand the foodie fanaticism. Such a simple idea: to fill fried 'cups' with chicken mince and sprouts. The result is an explosion of flavours and textures in your mouth that you would want to return to, again and again. I also fell in love with the Kebabs on Sugarcane Skewers, which satisfied my craving for the succulent treat with a distinctive Asian twist. Another non-vegetarian delight was the Thai Mutton Chops, cooked to perfection. Ilvika is in charge of Research and Business Development of the brand at present, and has watched her family's restaurant evolve through the years. Her observations make me realise that stories are also a kind of sustenance at Malaka Spice, and they give birth to some lip-smacking food.
Each appetiser introduced a different flavour profile, beyond the usual kinds one encounters at most Pan-Asian establishments. I was only halfway done, but I already had an inkling of the novelty of my experience. This dedication to flavour and balanced indulgence was reflected in the mains as well. I savoured the playfully intricate Roti Jhala with the aromatic Malaka Kari Kapitan as I listened to the legend of how the latter got its name. I also got a taste of the summer menu.
Nasi Kandar-inspired Thaal. Photo Credit: Malaka Spice
For summer 2024, the team has decided to hone its focus on Peranakan cuisine with a special Thaal twist. "This year, we wanted to pay tribute to the vibrant flavours of Nasi Kandar and the Peranakan food culture that embodies the essence of Malaysia," says Praful Chandawarkar, Founder and Managing Director of the House of Malaka Spice. Nasi Kandar is a hawker meal served from brass pots balanced on bamboo poles to dock workers. It is said to have been brought to Penang from India. Malaka Spice's summer special presents a scrumptious interpretation of the many curries that accompany the fragrant rice in this dish.
There are set vegetarian and non-vegetarian menus, served Thaal-style, for a homely exploration of new flavours. For us, the highlights from the vegetarian spread were the juicy Tamarind Corn Ribs and the amazing Pineapple and Yam curry. Other delicacies include Fried Beans, Yam Malay Curry Puff, Black Pepper Tofu, etc. Non-vegetarians can enjoy dishes like the Chicken Malay Curry Puff, Black Pepper Squid & Prawns, Buff Rendang or Pulled Lamb Curry, Malay Chicken Curry and more.
Malaka has a wide range of wines and beverages (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) that are as carefully curated as the food menu. The cocktail menu at Malaka is harvest-based. My favourite drink of the night was 'A Beautiful Mess', a gin-based cocktail infused with mulberries from the farm. The name is a reference to an unwitting mix-up at the harvest stage. The berry is the undeniable star of the cocktail and gives it a luscious thickness. Another celebration of the farm's produce was 'The Forager', a clarified tequila cocktail with notes of jalapeno, pineapple and starfruit. For a lighter sip, we recommend the 'Holy Gimlet' with gin and basil. The restaurant also has a tempting array of non-alcoholic drinks with unique and refreshing combinations. I especially loved the Malaka Iced Tea, which is their take on Thai Iced tea.
Among the desserts, I savoured Malaka Tab Tim Krob, a mouth-watering interpretation of the famous Thai dessert. We loved the crunch of the chocolate-coated water chestnuts, served with creamy coconut ice cream and pandan-infused coconut milk. If you're visiting in chickoo season, you may also get the opportunity (like me) to try Malaka Spice's lovely Chickoo Mousse. What a fun way to make the most of the fruit's distinctive texture!
Cherish Farm offers guests a tranquil farm experience complete with organic meals. Photo Credit: Malaka Spice/ Cherish Farms
My taste of Malaka Spice's hospitality and innovation did not end there. The next day, I had the chance to visit Cherish Farms and take a tour of the plantations that supply produce to the different Malaka Spice establishments. The Chandawarkars work the farm in collaboration with in-house experts with valuable field experience and use the farmhouse as a space for pop-ups. The modest accommodation is also available to rent and provides a serene getaway along the Bhima River just an hour away from the city. It is worthwhile to note that Malaka Spice's farm-to-table concept also works in the opposite direction to minimise food waste. Leftovers from the restaurants are turned into compost here and converted into nutrient-rich manure for the farm.
As I walked around the farm, I spotted the chickoos of my mousse, the mulberries of my cocktail and the many shrubs that flavoured my curries. It was quietly rewarding to retrace the provenance of the exquisite delicacies I had enjoyed the night before. I have always valued the power of food to forge connections - with oneself, with others and with Nature. My experiences at Malaka Spice and Cherish Farms reinforced that faith with its holistic approach to everything from sourcing ingredients to giving a modern twist to a dish. It's a culinary expedition you cannot afford to miss.
Where: Malaka Spice, Siddharth Chambers, Lane, off North Main Road, Koregaon Park, Pune, Maharashtra.
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